For a downloadable, illustrated step by step guide please see "Installation & Sizing Guides"
Step 1: Make sure the area drains suitably.
Step 2: Use a Turf Cutter to remove your lawn and excavate to a depth of 75mm (3 inches), then weed kill the area.
Step 3: Where there is not an edge or a wall to butt the grass up to use some tanilized wooden battens (75mm x 25mm) securing with either wooden stakes or support with concrete to create a boundary around the perimeter. Alternatively create a concrete block edge to establish a frame around the area to be covered with artificial grass.
Step 4: Get rid of any unnecessary bumps or left-over debris, then carefully level off the area you wish to cover leaving natural falls. Lay a geotextile membrane as a lining for the sub-base before adding hardcore stone. A geotextile has a strong tear resistance and is an ideal stabilising membrane. This will not only prevent weeds but will also stabilise the sub base prior to artificial grass being laid.
Step 5: Apply 50mm layer of type 1 hardcore, compacted, followed on top with 25mm of builders sharp sand to your levelled area. The sand is only there to blind the top of your sub-base, so should be firm. Too much sand will cause dips, humps and bumps when you eventually lay your grass over the top. Alternatively use to a depth of 75mm 0-6mm granite dust, which is an ideal base aggregate for a sub base.
As an approximate guide:
1 tonne of type 1 hardcore filling a depth of 50mm with cover 15 square metres.
1 tonne of builders sharp sand filling a depth of 25mm will cover 30 square metres.
Step 6: Once level compact it with a heavy roller or wacker plate. The area needs to be porous, but firm.
Tip – To level the area use screed rails or a wooden batten 2″ x 4″ x 2 metres, sliding the bar left and right pulling towards you across the surface.
Step 7: Lay Evergrass weed membrane over the area you wish to lay your artificial grass. This should be fixed to the perimeter area using 150mm fixing U pins.
Step 8: Unroll your fresh, new artificial lawn. Stretch over your covering area and leave rolled out for 24hrs. This will allow the pre-rolled grass time to settle with any creases time to come out and the pile to settle after being rolled. The warmer and sunnier the weather the quicker this process will take. Once settled carefully cut the boundary with a sharp trimming knife.
Creases – Due to the molecular structure of the material artificial grass does sometimes crease when rolled. Creases will fall out. The grass is not classed as faulty if delivered or installed with creases. The grass will de-crease quite noticeably daily, especially in warmer weather conditions. Sometimes this can take a number of days.
Step 9: Always make sure you check the pile direction of your artificial lawn. Try laying your lawn in the opposite direction to check the shade from one angle to the next. You may find you like the way your new artificial lawn lays when you turn it around. Always check this before making those final close-fitting edge cuts.
Step 10: Anchor your artificial lawn to the ground around the edges with 150mm U pins approximately every half metre. Alternatively, where a boundary has been created with the tanilized wooded battens simply use galvanised screws or grip nails to secure the edge of the grass to the top edge of the wooden battens. The thickness of the pile will hide the head of the nails. If a concrete block edge has been used the grass can be fixed on using our Greenbond Adhesive, applying the adhesive directly onto the block edge. 1 tube per 4 linear metres of edge.
Step 11: Once you’re happy with the results, brush pile with a stiff broom. Some of our grasses we recommend kiln dried silica sand to be added to the surface of the grass after laying. This is especially recommended where there is high footfall and regular play activity. If kiln dried sand is recommended, usually 5kg per metre square, simply disperse over the total surface area then brush in with a stiff broom.
Step 1: Your Artificial Grass can easily be installed onto any existing concrete or hard and smooth surface, if it drains well including previously decked areas.
Step 2: Remove any debris from the area you wish to cover.
Step 3: Lay your Artificial Grass onto the area.
Step 4: Stretch out your Artificial Lawn to remove any ripples and fix around the perimeter using Greenbond adhesive, trimming each edge with a trimming knife.
Step 5: You can stick down the entire area if you choose to. Again, using Greenbond adhesive, ensure your Artificial Grass is adequately secured, then flatten using a carpet roller.
Step 6: Once you’re happy with the results, brush pile with a stiff broom.
Step 1: The most important thing to ensure when joining two or more pieces of artificial grass, is that the pile runs in the same direction.
Step 2: Lay the two artificial grass pieces beside each other with the pile facing up, and line the edges up together.
Step 3: Fold the edge of both pieces back approximately 1 inch, then carefully trim each joining edge to remove the salvage edge.
Step 4: Lay the Evergrass Joining tape on the ground directly up the centre of the join.
Step 5: Apply Greenbond adhesive along the tape in a zig zag line, then apply an adhesive line up the side of each zig zag, onto the tape. Ideally using a plastic floor adhesive spreader with notched teeth. This will then give an excellent raised coverage for the artificial grass to adhere to.
Step 6: Fold one side of the Artificial Grass onto half of the joining tape, then fold the other side onto the joining tape. Always ensure that your two Artificial Grass piece butt up together all the way up the joining seam.
Step 7: Firmly press along the length of the seam to ensure the adhesive sticks correctly and leave to dry.
Step 8: Once you’re happy with the results, brush pile with a stiff broom.